When the appropriate couple is formed, we need to split it up to another breeding tank. This tank can be a 100 or 200-litre one. Even if 50*50*50 tanks are used to enable free movements of the fish, the size is not that important. Inexperienced mother cannot take care of baby fish. We will use a good heater and pipe-filter in the breeding tank.

Then, the water level which the couple is taken to will be set to more suitable levels. As this suitable level may change according to fish and pair, it will be the most difficult part to decide which one is best at the first place. Through time, you will know your couple and you won’t find it necessary to measure it. The water level intervals that I have learnt from my own experiences are 150-200 microsiemens for conductivity and 7,0-7,2 for pH. We will need a Reverse Osmos apparatus or enough level of carboy water to decrease the conductivity. We will decrease the general conductivity rate through a change of 20% water from our tank and an addition of low-conductive water.  At this point, in a place close to production aquarium we will need a reserve water depot or something like jerry can to which we can stock water. It essential to decrease the nutrition of the pairs that we have taken to the production tank. Otherwise, water levels will be in a bad way quickly.

Under suitable conditions, the fertilized roes turn into larva in 48-72 hours. During this period, the mother takes care of roes together or separately and they also distinguish the unfertilized and problematic ones. It may not be possible to see larva after each fertilization. In these conditions, especially the ammoniac-nitrite-nitrate levels may be disappointing. Continue your tests without disappointments. It will be patience that will give you victory in this hobby.

After all the larva are opened, the pairs always handle with them and, if necessary, they carry as well. In 48-72 hours-time after the opening of larva, baby fish will swim. There may be some problems in this period. The baby fish may move towards vibrating and dark-coloured things. If you come across this situation, take the pipe-filter and heater, or ventouse  out of the aquarium.

After this period, there will be a demanding period, the baby fish take nourishment via absorbing the mucosa from the mother. After first 7 days, they grow quickly. Immediately after they recognize artemia, you should make nutrition reinforcement with starting to take the artemia out. In the first day, start to give artemia in very small proportions. You can feed the baby fish that have got familiar with Artemia 5-6 times a day. It will be necessary to change the water starting to get dirty due to artemia, and increase the already-decreased conductivity. Increase the conductivity as in the same way that you decrease it at the first periods. Be careful in providing the same temperature of aquarium where the baby fish live in water changes. After setting the conductivity to normal levels, it is vital to change 50% water.  Following the 15^th day, start to feed the baby fish with beefheart. By the way, it may require to split some of the pairs that don’t get on well together. While making this selection, leave the mother that is better in caring with the fish baby fish. After 15 days, baby fish will not need the mother. If you face many losses of baby fish within 30 days, you need to check the system and mother. Sterilizing the system and caretakers will minimize the loss of baby fish in first 30 days.

Following the 30^th day, the main nutrition of baby fish becomes beefheart. You can end feeding with artemia. However, according to my own experience, I can conclude that you should feed with artemia even once a day up to 60 days. After 60 days, survived baby fish should be separated with respect to their size into different aquariums. This process helps them grow more quickly.